A trend that brought last year’s Geneva Salon haute horlogerie with simpler and more classical watches definitely was continued this year, when they were overcome with such models. The Swiss watch industry crisis has been overcome, as demonstrated by numerous models with high complications and sports models. To thin and ultrathin watches are not only Piaget specialty, shows the other brands like A. Lange & Sohne, Cartier, Audemars Pikuet (…) And the Asian market, which has largely allowed overcoming the crisis, sparked a new trend, so this year in Geneva after a long time we were able to see the clocks with less body, apparently intended for slightly smaller hands and wrists. Geneva was in full bloom this year, and we’ve selected for you some beautiful models.
Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater
Audemars Piguet introduced a new Millenary Repeater, a major complication made of titanium, due to the required acoustic performance of the Repeater. And when speaking of the Repeater, it is noted that it is precisely this brand specializes in making them, because the first Minute Repeater A. Piguet made in 1892. This latest run with AP’s manually wind caliber 2910, and has a power reserve of up to 165 hours, thanks to two large barrel that can be seen through the transparent background of the case. Huge housing of 47 mm is made of light brushed titanium. The clock has features of hours, minutes, seconds and a minute repeater, and go with the hand sewed belt of crocodile skin, and is not waterproof. For those who are already inquiring about this model only note that Millenary will be made in only eight copies.
Cartier De Calibre
Cartier introduced a new in-house automatic movement known as 1904-PS MC. It powers the new men’s Calibre de Cartier line. The movement features twin barrels to provide a steady flow of power to the escapement, and the regulation system allows for fine adjustment to increase timekeeping accuracy. A stop-seconds system facilitates synchronization to a reference signal. Cartier also paid close attention to the winding system. Ceramic ball bearings at the center of the rotor ensure excellent shock resistance and durability. Cartier abandoned reversers in favor of a pawl system to speed winding, and a bi-directional full-size rotor assures maximum winding efficiency. The movement measures 25.6mm in diameter and 4mm thick and it beats at 28.800 vph. The power reserve is 48 hours. The rotor and upper bridges are finished with traditional Côtes de Genève, and the main plate, which is hidden from view, is circular-grained.
IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days
The Portofino stands for elegance and class, but above, for simplicity. Therefore, the Portofino has been seen as IWC’s entry-level watch for a long time. This is no longer the case with its Hand-Wound Eight Days that features an in-house manufactured caliber 59210 movement. We predict that this ref. 5101 of the Portofino collection will be quite sought after as soon as it’s available. IWC takes a lot of pride in what it does, hence the beautiful catalogs it publishes every year. Not too long ago, IWC started moving away from using third-party mechanical movements, and this new caliber 59210 movement is a perfect example of the watchmaker’s fine in-house craftsmanship.
Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic
This model is a powerful expression of the Piaget genetic heritage: unique competence in the field of ultra-thin watchmaking, combined with a determination to develop consistently innovative and creative complicated calibres. Drawing upon the qualities of both Piaget Calibre 600P – the world’s thinnest hand-wound tourbillon movement – and Piaget Calibre 1208P – the world’s thinnest self-winding movement equipped with a micro-rotor – Calibre 1270P, Piaget’s first ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon movement measuring just 5.55 mm thick, offers a combination of technical and aesthetic innovations. The new Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin watch features the slimmest profile on the market, with a case measuring just 10.4 mm thick. It is thus completely in tune with Piaget’s major breakthroughs and innovations that have had a lasting influence on the world of Haute Horlogerie.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Tribute to 1931
It was only a matter of time before Jaeger-LeCoultre did a “heritage” version of their already “in the past” Reverso watch. A timeless classic, the Reverso has come in dozens of versions, becoming one of the brand’s most signature timepieces. As the name of this new “Tribute” watch suggests, the original Reverso watch was released in 1931. The idea behind it was to be a timepiece that could be worn while playing polo – but that would also be less susceptible to damage given that watch crystals were made of glass back then. In 2011 Jaeger-LeCoultre will release two versions of this Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 watch. They will be in larger “Grande” Reverso cases being 46mm tall and 27.5mm wide. Thickness is just 7.2mm, which goes with the svelte “Ultra Thin” moniker. The case will be available in steel or 18k pink gold. One version will be a limited edition (the other not). The limited edition model will have just baton style hour markers done in gold, while the standard model will have baton hour markers mixed with Arabic numeral at “12″ and “6″ o’clock.
Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph
For 2011 Montblanc will release a few versions of this Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Anniversary Edition watch. The dial has numerous subtle changes to it, and the result is something beautifully refined and extremely high-class in appearance. The dial itself is guilloche machine engraved. The case is about 43mm wide and available in either 18k rose gold, white gold, or platinum (the platinum version has an 18k white gold crown). Inside the watch Montblanc uses their MB R110 manually wound movement. This is sort of skeletonized version of the R100. It has the time, a date disc, and a 60 minute monopusher chronograph that has a column wheel and vertical clutch. It also has a power reserve of 72 hours. The chronograph discs appear wonderfully simple and straight forward, with the skeletonization located between them – revealing parts of the movement workings. Montblanc redid the time dial to enhance legibility. This process sort of inset the date, making it a disc rather than a hand. A small arrow under the “Anniversary Edition” label indicates the precise date. The original model suffered from a bit of a legibility issue in this area – but this design offers a distinct improvement. The dial still features blued steel hands, and exposed palette synthetic sapphires to add color to the look. The rose gold version will be available as a set of 190 pieces, 90 pieces in white gold, and the platinum model will have only 20 pieces available. Montblanc really ups the value of the entire Nicolas Rieussec range by having this beautiful version available in the collection Expect prices in the $30,000 – $40,000 range for the gold models, over $50,000 for the platinum model.
Vacheron Constantin Quai de L’Ille Retrograde
Vacheron Constantin’s Quai de l’Ile collection offers contemporary design and a unique opportunity for owners to create their own distinctive example via a series of personalization options. For 2011, a new Retrograde Annual Calendar joins the collection, powered by the new Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 QRA automatic movement. Available in pink or white gold, or both if the customer desires, the 43mm case houses a new movement designed, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin, and bearing the Hallmark of Geneva. The 326-part Calibre 2460 QRA drives the hours, minutes and small seconds at 9 o’clock, as well as the annual calendar with retrograde date display, months and a high-precision moon-phase indication requiring correction once every 122 years. Equipped with a stop-seconds device (“hacking seconds”) to ensure precise time-setting, the movement runs at 4 Hz (28,800 vph) with a 40-hour power reserve. The ruthenium-plated 22K gold rotor is mounted on ceramic ball bearings. The cushion-shaped case is offered in a new 43mm size with a screw-down back with sapphire crystal. The latest addition to the collection also offers new dial versions with satin-brushed/vertical finishing in the central zone and opaline finishing in the outer zone, as well as for the month and date indications. The dial incorporates the latest “security printing” technology: the sun motif, inspired by the clock tower of the Tour de l’Ile (next to the historic headquarters of Vacheron Constantin), is placed inside a disc printed in invisible ink and appears between 4 and 5 o’clock only under ultraviolet light.
Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3Days Bronzo
The new Panerai Luminor Submersible watches are crafted of CuSn8 bronze, tough material, which is resistant to corrosion. It’s important to know that the bronze reacts to the external agents (air, humidity, heat and wear) and forms the patina. This means that, after the years of wearing, your watch will get the unique sign of aging. If you appreciate the authentic vintage watch design, you’ll definitely be amazed with its new appearance. After all, the patina doesn’t affect the quality of material and you can always polish the watch case in order to bring back the previous shine of your Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo. Case is made of brushed bronze and it is pretty large, with diameter of 47mm. It has famous shape from 1950’s and incorporates anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel, also crafted in bronze. Bezel features graduated scale for calculating the immersion time and ratchet click at minute intervals. Finally, bronze is used for the special bridge, which protects the winding crown and contributes to the superb water-resistance up to 300 meters. The watch is powered by in-house automatic Panerai P.9000 calibre, which has two barrels that provide power reserve of 72 hours. This movement oscillates at frequency of 28,800 alternations per hour and features 195 different components and 28 jewels. Thanks to Incabloc anti-shock device, it successfully withstands mechanical shocks.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second
A modern yet timeless spirit infuses the creations of Girard-Perregaux. The new Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second, with a 40 mm round case, embraces this philosophy perfectly. The design is largely inspired by Girard-Perregaux’s 19th century pocket watches. For a contemporary homage to this secular tradition, it quickly became clear that enamel was the only choice for the dial. The properties of enamel and its special component make the dial it adorns resistant, lending it depth and a unique character. This traditional technique, now only mastered by a very few experts, consists of fixing the enamel powder and ensuring its harmonious balance through heat during delicate firing stages. Complementing this inspiration are elegant painted Arabic numerals which punctuate the movement of the blued steel leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, while the small second hand marks its path around a counter at 6 o’clock. This model beats in time to a new automatic movement, developed from the Girard-Perregaux calibre 3300. In line with the Brand’s ongoing quest for excellence, this masterpiece of watch creation offers a modified small second display, just slightly offset to balance the design perfectly. The diversity and richness of the decorations and finishes adorning the multiple components can be seen through a transparent sapphire case-back.
Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 2
Just so you know, the cheaper version of this watch costs over $700,000. Well over $700,000…. and there is the platinum version… I might just nickname this watch the “PhD degree times six.” That sounds about right. After skipping over the Invention Piece number 2 the first time around and going straight to the Invention Piece 3, Greubel Forsey revisits your lust for four tourbillons again with the Invention Piece 2 in gold or platinum. One of the most common types of decoration is something called “anglage.” This is literally the process of applying “angles” to the bridges and other components in a movement – and the 594 piece movement in this Greubel Forsey Invention Piece Number 2 watch has a ton of it. The sheer majesty of decorated parts in the Invention Piece 2’s movement is where a lot of the value is derived when trying to understand the timepiece’s high cost. You also get the privilege of knowing that you have one of the world’s most difficult to master complications, times four. While this isn’t the first time Greubel Forsey has offered a watch with four tourbillons, it is the grandest. In fact, the Swiss brand went from the Invention Piece Number 1 to the Number 3, skipping over this one because the 2 just needed more work. For 2011 the Invention Piece 2 makes its long await debut, offering the holy trinity of elements that makes the ultra-high-end watch maker so desirable. Those three elements are incredible complexity, incredible decoration and finishing, and in this instance specially, beautiful aesthetics.
A. Lange & Sohne Tourbillon Pour Le Merite
Available both in limited edition platinum or unlimited rose gold case, the watch will be equipped with Lange’s signature fusee-and-chain transmission. The transmission allows for more uniform transfer of energy from the mainspring barrel to the going train, but, consisting of whole 636 parts, is difficult to build and is therefore reserved only for the high-end pieces of the brand. Another interesting feature of the upcoming model is a one-minute tourbillon with stop-seconds function. Simply put, the tourbillon stops and the second hand switches to a “0? position every time you want to adjust the watch, thus allowing for more accurate setting of the timekeeper. As you can see on the pictures, there is a cutaway at the subsidiary seconds subdial, which is located between 7 and 8 o’clock and overlaps the hours display standing between 4 and 5 o’clock. When the hour hand comes past 6 o’clock, there instantly appears a pivoting segment of the subdial with VIII, IX and X numerals printed on it. The segment stays on its place until the hour hand reaches the 12 o’clock position and then again disappears in a blink of an eye. A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite hand-wound watch in platinum (Ref. 760.025). Of course, such a complication requires a great deal of energy to accomplish four times a day, but the manufacture-made Calibre L072.1 manual-wind movement still features a pretty decent power reserve of 36 hours. Built of 351 parts (not including the fusee-and-chain mechanism,) the movement features three screwed gold chatons, Glucydur screw balance and an in-house balance spring. This relatively slow movement beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour. As usual for the German brand, the watch is supplied in a very elegant and refined case that measures 41.90 mm in diameter and only 12.20 mm high.
Baume & Mercier Classima Red Gold Dual Time and Power Reserve
GMT pieces are always cool, especially for the jet-set executives that are likely to rock this piece from Baume’s soon to be released 2011 Classima collection. It’s a smallish piece, just 39mm but has some really cool design accents. Dig the way this maker has creatively dropped in the small Roman numeral at 3 o’clock. The black dial features a straight-line guilloché pattern and gilt hour-markers, complemented by an alligator leather strap. This rose-gold case is done quite nicely by Baume et Mercier. The dual time-zone and power-reserve functions, along with the case-back providing a view of the personalized oscillating weight bearing the brand’s PHI symbol, will delight devotees of fine watches.
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